Water Powered Car

Build Your Own
Hydrogen & Oxygen Generator

RUN YOUR CAR ON TAP WATER!

IT ALSO WORKS ON YOUR

TRUCK / RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC)

Build a Hydrogen Powered Car

Will This Hydrogen Generator Work?

(Dennis Klein, Francisco Pacheco, Stanley Meyer,
Daniel Dingel and others have all done it with their designs)

see the videos, and more, below

If you live in the So. Florida area and you have already built one, contact us. (our email address is at the bottom of this page). We would love to take pictures and tell your story. There is still a lot of dis-belief out there and it will help others here who are still trying to build theirs.

TV Channel 10, Miami, Florida, 5pm, July 12th 2008, www.local10.com
The owner(?) of "Rosen's Garage"(?) was interviewed showing a vehicle with about 5 small bottles of water in front of the radiator which he said produced hydrogen and increased his gas milage from 9.x mpg to 13.x mpg. (I don't remember the decimal fraction. About a 44% increase!) Go to www.local10.com/contact/index.html and ask them about it. Maybe we can get something started on television news!

These plans were sent to the Spirit of Ma'at anonymously, from someone who does not want his or her name printed.

[Suggestion, just build the cannister and enough parts of the controller to generate the ultra sound frequency. Then, getting it to work, let everyone know and, build the rest of the controller]

It is possible to make a hybrid fuel source of both gas and water in addition to just running on water alone.

[There is a system that is being demo'ed now in Florida, by Dennis Klein in which he has run his car on water with and without a gasoline "supplement" -- His "water mileage" was about 25 miles per ounce without any gas supplement. He is now working with the military and the state of Tennessee]

The text, below, sent from the anonymous individual was edited slightly for better reading. The following is his/her words and drawings, which has been given into the public domain.

Spirit of Ma'at LLC

also see the Orion Project's work on the subject

Introduction

Diagrams

Figure 1



Figure 2



Figure 3

It is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you own, one that you don't need to live with everyday, until you perfect this technology.

In putting these plans into operation, you will be making use of your entire existing system except for the fuel tank and the catalytic converter.

The Plan

Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the-shelf components.

This is supposed to be an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine, instead of gasoline.

This "minisystem" runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system, and it plugs into your carburetor [Fuel Injectors] with simple off-the-shelf fittings.

You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges, and then hooking into your existing carb/FI. [Fuel Injectors]

The simplicity comes from its being an "on-demand" system requiring no fancy storage or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you electrically [/sonicly] create more vapor for immediate consumption, on demand; low-high flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum power. The change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional petroleum-based fuel.
H₂O --> H₂ + O₂

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How does it qualify as "free energy"?

A: If you're paying someone for the water you use, then it is not strictly free. But it's close enough.

Q: Is it safe?

A: It is safer than running on fossil fuel. You are no longer choking on your own emissions (health-wise). You are no longer running the extreme risk of a gasoline fire or explosion! Additionally, you will be installing a few simple safety devices, using current automotive standards.
To put it another way, Hydrogen is just as explosive as Gasoline but nothing that is left over, does any harm to the environment: When hydrogen 'burns' it becomes pure water!
H₂ + O₂ --> H₂O     ( Technically, 2 molecules of hydrogen + 1 molecule of oxygen --> 2 molecules of water )

Q: What kind of performance can I expect?

A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapor-only fuel system will run cooler, and at a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance expected from this design ranges from 50-300 mpg (of water), depending on your adjusting skills.

Q: Can I do the modification myself?

A: Why not? If you don't have any mechanical skills, and you know someone with basic mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate some of the construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you may have to get a mechanic's opinion. (There will have to be an adapter inserted into the fuel-injection system, just as you would have to do if you were going to run on propane, hydrogen, or natural gas. Spirit of Ma'at Ed.)

Q: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?

A: It will be producing H₂0 (water vapor). Hence, it will be cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it. Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric oxygen. You can also help those around you do the same thing - as long as they have no stock in oil companies to protect - and don't threaten you.

Q: Isn't this really a steam engine?

A: No. Really. Exceedingly high temperature and pressure are not used. This is strictly an internal-combustion engine (burning hydrogen) with residual water-vapor (remember, the engine runs cooler than it did with gasoline) in the exhaust as a by-product.

Read This

There are a few things you should remember about gasoline:

Gasoline poisons the atmosphere and, it is very toxic and dangerous!

2 videos to show the non-believers






hy-drive.com, enhancing trucks today.

Gasoline versus Water

Most people are unaware that "internal combustion" is defined as "a thermo-vapor process" — as in "no liquid in the reaction." Most of the gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine is actually consumed, (cooked, and finally, broken down) in the catalytic converter after the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means that most of the fuel we use in this way is used only to cool down the combustion process, a pollution-ridden and inefficient means of doing that.

How It Works

Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-5A electrical pulse which breaks 2(H₂O) => 2H₂ + O₂. When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. You step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapor to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.

You set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and you're off to the races.

In the big picture, your energy is coming from the tap water in an open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the engine and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven accessories. And the alternator is efficient enough to run the various electrical loads (10 - 20 amps), including the additional low current to run this vapor reaction. No extra batteries are required.

electrical pulses, not electrolysis Where normal water electrolysis requires the passage of current measured in amps, this cell achieves the same effect in milliamps. Furthermore, ordinary tap water requires the addition of an electrolyte such as sulphuric acid to aid current conduction with the standard electrolysis approach; these cells function at greatest efficiency with plain tap water. According to the witnesses, the most startling aspect of the Meyer cell was that it remained cold, even after hours of gas production. Meyer's experiments, which he seems to be able to perform to order, have earned him a series of US patents granted under Section 101. The granting of a patent under this section is dependent on a successful demonstration of the invention to a Patent Review Board. Meyer's cell seems to have many of the attributes of an electrolytic cell except that it functions at high voltage, low current rather than the other way around. Construction is unremarkable. The electrodes --- referred to as "excitors" by Meyer --- are made from parallel plates of stainless steel placed in either flat or concentric arrangements. (see the washers, on the right, for the simplest method) Gas production seems to vary as the inverse of the distance between them; the patents suggest a spacing of 1.5 mm produces satisfactory results. A witness team of independent UK scientifc observers testified that US inventor Stanley Meyer successfully decomposed ordinary tap water into constituent elements through a combination of high, pulsed voltage using an average current measured only in milliamps. Reported gas evolution was enough to sustain a hydrogen /oxygen flame which instantly melted steel. (How Denny Klein got started - see video) "We did notice that the water at the top of the cell slowly became discolored with a pale cream and dark brown precipitate, almost certainly the effects of the chlorine in the heavily chlorinated tap water..." ... "We clearly saw how increasing and decreasing the voltage is used to control gas production. We saw how gas generation ceased and then began again instantly as the voltage driving circuit was switched off and then on again." The use of a high voltage spike alone (1500 volts+), without the current being delivered through the liquid, will not cause the disassociation to take place. Once Stan's unit was made to begin breakdown (which takes 6 to 8 seconds) he was able to reduce both current and voltage to miniscule proportions. There are two primary frequencies that produce the best results. They are: 14,372 Hz and 43,430 Hz. The former is about 50% more efficient, but it seems that just about any frequency between 9 KHz and 143,762 KHz works quite well. (1) This is because the nature of the wave form ( a spike ) is rich in harmonics and one of them is bound to be close to one of the two primary frequencies. Meyer was apparently eating dinner at a Grove City OH restaurant, when it is reported that he jumped up from the table, yelled that he'd been poisoned", and rushed out into the parking lot, where he collapsed and died. Theives came a week later and stole the the dune buggy and all of his experimental equipment, according to his twin brother, Stephen. Stan said while he was alive, that he was threatened many times and would not sell out to Arab Oil Corp`s. The Military was going to use this technology in their tanks, jeeps, etc. He had patents on his invention and was ready for production. Only $1,500 to equip your car! See the Videos above. No gasoline, just water. Stanley said he was offered a billion dollars from an Arab to basically shelf his idea. Stan said, "No".

STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION

OVERVIEW - Here is the suggested sequence of steps:

1.   Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp range (gasoline), for comparison.

2.   Build and test the controller to verify the pulse output.

3.   Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e pressure out).

4.   Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.

5.   Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.

6.   Install stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic.
      [editor's note: don't bother. Daniel Dingel has been running his car on plain water
      for 30 years (no gas at all) and seems very unlikely to have done anything that
      extreme. See video below.]

7.   Dump the now pointless catalytic converter and, if your exaust pipe is
      not stainless steel already, replace it with stainless steel pipe sections.

YOU WILL NEED

  plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.

  control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.

  reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.

  3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.

  carb/FI vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.

  stainless steel valves.

  copper mesh junction.

  ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.

  stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.

BASIC TOOLS

  drill, screwdriver and pliers

  hole cutter

  wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers

  DVM and oscilloscope.

REACTION CHAMBER

Construct as shown in the diagram. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber (fig.s 2&5) or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure.

The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

CONTROL CIRCUIT

The diagrams show a simple circuit [to an electrician] to control and drive this mini-system. You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is: the faster you want do go down the road, the 'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).

There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few. The NE555-circuit approach (see diagrams) is from the referenced patent. The output switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation).

Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.

DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no minimum order. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.

You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins and thru-hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best circuits to use will be announced pending prototype testing. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

Throttle Control

If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level = pulse width = vapor rate).

If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or FI. If you make the attachment at the carb/FI, be sure to use a POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.

Control Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor rate, i.e. pulse-width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to generate a 10% ON 'square' pulse. The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse in the 10-250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.

In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapor conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job done.

You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 - 100 usec on the horizontal time-base). Your averaging DVM will display the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure .5 - 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got everything you wanted.

Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

CARB/FI CONNECTION

The diagrams also show that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.

The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure without leakage. Your new 'system' is considered successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure safety valve.

CHT (or EGT)

Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is too slow for this application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have burnt something. Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement. VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug against the cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).

ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT

Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders ceramic-treated ASAP when you have successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not delay as these items will rust, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier and cheaper to send your existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to the exhaust ports.

GENERAL

1.   Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components, e.g. tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back to something that at least runs, just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup completely intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.

2.   Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle, and maximum vapor flow at full power without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you control how 'lean' your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. "fatness" at the optimum pulse frequency).

3.   If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that you need to (1) change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between the electrodes, (3) change the size (bigger) electrodes, or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always use an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow?

4.   If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting the timing), it means that you need to install an additional coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base). Here, you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn thru out the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT touching either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking at any power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from the combustion.

5.   Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof, vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.

6.   If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal, make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure range from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure relief-valve to 75 psi and make sure it's rated for much higher.

7.   Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can find, by leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use of the water-vapor cooling technique. Keep good mpg performance records, and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment.

8.   There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru a fuel injector; there may be some details you will discover on your own as working prototypes progress. For example, you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any water vapor, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always "replacing the FI system with a Carb."

9.   If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating temp/stress), you will want to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle position (idle - max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly sufficient flow for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.

10.   If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap, you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.

11.   If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating coils.

REFERENCES

• Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or

• Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794, uspto.gov

• Stanley Meyer 'Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent 4936961,

• uspto.gov

• Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water', fuelless.com

• Carl Cella "A Water-Fuelled Car" Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996

• Peter Lindemann "Where in the World is All the Free Energy", free-energy.cc

• George Wiseman "The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series" eagle-research.com

• C. Michael Holler "The Dromedary Newsletter" and "SuperCarb Techniques"

• Stephen Chambers "Prototype Vapor Fuel System" xogen.com

The Pacheco Hydrogen Generator

2 videos John Kanzius youtube: Salt Water-Powered Car? - (John Kanzius) John Kanzius Produces Hydrogen from Salt Water ...(peswiki) Salt water fuel gets major university review - Kanzius Aug. 12, 2007 John Kanzius (his water to hydrogen by rf) wrote: The CBS News Network was in last week [regarding] the cancer procedure. They also taped some of the saltwater. We shall see what happens in the next few weeks. I have had Motor Trend folks in and have the worlds foremost authorities on water coming in soon. Aug. 11, 2007 Actor Peter Fonda hugs John Kanzius after speaking at Liberty Park on Friday, August 10. Fonda helped to raise money for the John Kanzius Cancer Research Fund by participating in the ride and signing autographs. (Erie Times News; 8/11/2007) June 06, 2007 John Kanzius writes: "Since it appears we now have now achieved more than unity, I am going to do an embargo on releasing all further information. "Actually there are smart individuals who have posted on different web sited and actually have a pretty good idea of what is happening." John Kanzius, sorely weakened by leukemia treatments, drew on his lifetime of working with radio waves to devise a machine that targets cancer cells. The miracle: It works. (LA Times; Nov. 2, 2007)

 

2 videos Daniel Dingel He has been running his car on 100% hydrogen (hydrogen from water) for 30 years (?!) He has never tried any mixture of gas and water - he does not think it is possible. His car consumes about 1 quart (liter) per hour, he says. Conservatively 1 gal. should take you 120 to 240 miles? (30 to 60 mph) That makes water a lot better than gasoline on volume alone, not to mention price!

another

build your own hydrogen generator

Building Your Own Hydrogen Boost System, part 2 (Ron, RJ Todd)




click on image to see enlargement

Other Hydrogen Generators

2 more people with their "on demand" hydrogen generators looks like "brute force", expensive, electrolosys but, still cheaper than gasoline?!

Variable Pulse Controllers

A.K.A. Pulse Width Modulator - Dave Lawton

Variable Pulse Controller